Monday, April 19, 2010

Catherine Walters The Last Victorian Courtesan



Catherine "Skittles" Walters (13 June 1839 – 4 August 1920) was a fashion trendsetter and, along with Alice Keppel, was one of the last of the great courtesans of Victorian London.

Walters was rumoured to have had leaders of political parties and a member of the British royal family amongst her benefactors. She was born the third of five children at 1 Henderson Street, Toxteth, Liverpool and moved to London before her twentieth birthday. Her father was Edward Walters, a customs official, who died in 1864. Her mother was Mary Ann Fowler.



Her nickname is thought to have originated from her working at a bowling alley in Chesterfield Street near Park Lane. (Skittles is the game which evolved into bowling.)
Her classical beauty was matched by her skill as a horsewoman, for which she was almost equally renowned. In the 1860s the fascinating sight of Catherine riding on Rotten Row in Hyde Park drew huge crowds of sightseers. Aristocratic ladies copied the cut of her perfectly fitting "Princess" riding habit, and she was well known as a trendsetter. She was depicted in Sir Edwin Landseer's 1861 painting The Shrew Tamed, as a young woman in supine relaxation with a horse.
A letter written to the The Times in July 1861 described in detail the fever of anticipation caused by Catherine's waiting admirers:


 The Shrew Tamed, Edwin Landseer
"Expectation is raised to its highest pitch: a handsome woman drives rapidly by in a carriage drawn by thoroughbred ponies. The driver is attired in the pork pie hat and the Poole paletot introduced by 'Catherine', but alas!, she caused no effect at all, for she is not 'Catherine'; she is only the Duchess of A–, the Marchioness of B–, the Countess of C–, or some other of 'Catherine’'s many imitators." At last their patience was satisfied and Catherine herself appeared; she threaded her way through the throng, "commented upon by the hundreds who admire her and the hundreds who envy her", speaking to a chosen few along the way. This done, "she turns, and drives back again towards Apsley House, and then away into the unknown world, nobody knows whither".

 

She counted among her lovers Spencer Cavendish, the Marquess of Hartington (later the eighth Duke of Devonshire), whom she pursued to New York during the American Civil War; Napoléon III; and Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII}. She was also the first love of the poet Wilfrid Scawen Blunt, who remained infatuated with her for the rest of his life.

During her life as a courtesan, her discretion and loyalty to her benefactors became the focal point of her career. There were many rumours about her being involved with certain wealthy men of the time, but she never confirmed nor denied these. This gave her great weight in the courtesan lifestyle, and made her a sought after commodity. This also gave long life to her career, and helped her to retire a wealthy woman of society around 1890.


She died of cerebral haemorrhage at her home at 15 South Street, Mayfair, and was buried in the graveyard of the Franciscan Monastery at Crawley.

Text for Catherine Walters from Wikipedia.


Saturday, April 17, 2010

Three Days In Marrakesh

 
The other night we watched Jamie Olivers latest offering: 'Jamie Does Marrakesh'.  It was excellent, and it brought back memories of my fortieth birthday a couple of years ago, when MG treated me to three days in Marrakesh.

MG surprised me by announcing we were going there, I had never been and he knew it was on the top of my wish list for places to visit.  MG said it was up to me to choose accommodation. I knew two things, I wanted to stay in a beautiful riad, preferably with a pool and I wanted to stay in the heart of the Medina.  So I busily started researching riads, there are loads of websites advertising cool and hip places to stay in Marrakesh, a lot of my first choices were fully booked, but eventually I found a charming riad, very tastefully refurbished, owned by some arty types from New York, right in the heart of the Medina and it had a pool.

We were picked up from the airport by the manager of the riad, I will never forget my first impressions of Marrakesh, talk about a culture shock!  We got to the walls of the Medina and MG, myself and the manager all got out of the taxi.  From nowhere a small toothless man in a djellaba appeared, wielding a small wooden cart  he put our luggage into the cart and trotted off at a great pace, at first I thought he was making off with our luggage then it dawned on me that he was a riad porter.

We followed him through a labyrinth of alleyways, full of people, donkeys, carts, people selling their wears, there was stuff going on everywhere it was like returning to biblical times, I felt I was in the set for  'The Life Of Brian' or some other biblical epic.  The alleyways got smaller and smaller, we were twisting and turning all over the place, eventually we got to a small, ancient, arched, wooden door, the manager opened it and we stepped into another world.

The Riad
It was an oasis and a complete contrast to what was going on outside in the Medina, we sat down and relaxed in the courtyard on big comfy sofas, it was then that I saw the pool, which was lovely with rose petals floating in it, but far too small to swim in, purely decorative or big enough to bathe, a la Cleopatra.  We were served mint tea and we unwound from our travels, then we went to unpack in our beautiful room with en suite and got ready to do some serious exploring.

 
The window in our room
We decided to go and check out Djamma El Fna, the big square at the heart of the Medina, on route we took in the sights and sounds of The Souk, the only way to describe it 'A feast for all the senses' and if you see something you want to buy, I recommend you buy it immediately as you will never be able to find that shop again!  We got to the Square just at sunset, it was magnificent and full of snake charmers, dancers, magicians, soothsayers, tooth pullers and all manner of other things, the makeshift restaurants were just setting up for the night, it was amazing.

We wondered around and found a restaurant, not one of the eateries in the square, we would have loved to have eaten there, but they do not serve alcohol and we needed wine.  After dinner and some nightime wandering involving several stops for mint tea, we decided to amble back to our riad, this is where the problems started.

I thought I had a good sense of direction, not in the Medina in Marrakesh I don't! We got totally lost, all the landmarks that were there earlier had gone, closed up for the night, the busy alleyways are completely different in the dark, quiet and eerie, we wandered around for more than an hour, I kept saying 'I am sure it's down this one', no, wrong again.  We did have a map of the Medina, but believe me it's useless, MG was getting increasingly grumpy and in a fit of temper tantrum, he threw the map away, eventually we had to call the manager to come and get us, which was tricky as we did not know where we were but he found us and led us back to the riad.  We only managed to find the riad once on our own and that was in daylight!

Djamma El Fna
 We also explored the French quarter of Marrakesh which is a complete contrast to The Medina, very French with smart boutiques, trendy restaurants, big swanky hotels, chi chi boutique hotels and lots of chic ladies with equally chic dogs on leads. We ended up walking everywhere as the taxi drivers were on strike, we did get a caleche (horse and carriage taxi) when my feet gave out, but I was a bit choosy about caleches, I only wanted to go in ones where the horse looked in good condition, there were so many horses clearly not looked after properly and if the horse looked unwell, so did the carriage, threadbare upholstery and peeling paintwork etc.

One of the places I had to see was the Majorelle Gardens well what can I say, they were absolutely stunning and you have not seen blue, until you have seen the blue in the Majorelle Gardens!

Majorelle Gardens

Majorelle Gardens

Majorell Gardens

Graffiti Bamboo, Majorelle Gardens

Majorelle Gardens

Majorelle Gardens

Majorell Gardens

Majorelle Gardens

Majorell Gardens

On our last night MG took me out for my birthday dinner, we dined at The Dar Moha, one of Marrakesh's premier restaurants, in the former home of the French fashion designer Pierre Balmain.

It was a magical evening, the surroundings were exquisite, we dined outside by the pool in candlelight, the food was sublime, there were musicians playing and a little bird had told the staff it was my birthday, they presented me with a wonderful cake, on the house!

Dar Moha

 Dar Moha

Dar Moha
Marrakesh was wonderful and three days really weren't enough. After watching Jamie's program we both agreed we would like to return.  I am glad we stayed at the riad in the heart of the Medina, but next time we will stay somewhere that we will be able to find!

Friday, April 16, 2010

Hipstamatic Garden

Following in the footsteps of Inda Knight and Tania Kindersley, I have succumbed, and purchased the Hipstamatic i phone app available here for $1.19.  It has a choice of  lenses and film and it is supposed to make everything you photograph look beautiful with a vintage hue.

This morning whilst wandering round my garden in my robe, I experimented......

 Tiled water point under the jasmine arch

The Chateau from our garden

 The View

 Weeping Willow

 Flowers

 Gazebo, with climbing roses, just coming out

 The old well, complete with goldfish

Crusoe looking wistfully out of the window

Crusoe in his patch of sun

Wishing all of you a wonderful weekend.

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

My Cup Runneth Over!




Yes, my cup is certainly running over, I am honoured to say that last week I was bestowed with lovely awards.

  First up was 'The Beautiful Blogger Award', given to me from the lovely and talented Sharon over at: My French Country Home.  Sharon has her own beautiful blog, she is based in Normandy, and is a lady with many strings to her bow.

The second award was The 'I Love Your Blog' Awarded by the wonderful Sara Louise from Sara In Le Petit Village.  Sara, lives in a small village in Provence and her beautifully written blog is all about her experiences, Sara is a wonderful writer and she gives great metaphor.

The rules for The beautiful blogger award are I have to reveal seven things about myself and pass on the award to seven other bloggers, as I gave out some awards recently, I am going to award seven other bloggers at a later date.  So in no particular order, here are my seven things:


 Now ladies please don't be jealouse, but I have it on very good authority that I once gave Colin Firth a cold.

  Colin Firth as Mr Darcy

 I wish I could play the piano, for a long time I have harboured a fantasy, I go into a wonderful room, with some friends and in the room is a beautiful grand piano, I go up to tinkle the ivories and play beautifully like a major concert pianist. My friends are dumbfounded and amazed, they say things like "gosh, Dash you are so talented, we did not know you could play the piano".   I am of course, suitably modest and say something like "well it's just a little something I learnt along the way".

 Steinway Grand Piano

When I am in my dotage, God willing, I don't just want to become grey and invisible.  No, I want to be wonderfully eccentric, I would like to dye my hair pink, like Zandra Rhodes or be truly elegant like the 81 year old model Daphne Selfe.

Zandra Rhodes

Daphne Selfe

Daphne Selfe

I am a real water baby, I love swimming in the sea, one of these days I am determined to learn to water ski, preferably in lovely warm water, perhaps The Mediterranean, I also want to swim in the wild with dolphins and sea lions.

 

  MG is a petrol head, and I have become one by osmosis, I have a passion for vintage and retro cars, I adore the E type Jaguar but my favourite is the Bugatti Atlantic.

Bugatti Atlantic

I am longing to get a long muzzled girlfriend for Crusoe, my dog of choice is a Saluki, the oldest domestic dog breed in the world, they are beautiful.

Saluki

I have a secret (not any more!) crush on Tim Wannacott, his knowledge of antiques and history knows no bounds, I would love to go on a date antiquing with him.

Tim Wannacott, photo by Moody Kell

That concludes my seven things, I have had a lot of fun doing this.

Monday, April 12, 2010

Looking Forward To The Al Fresco Life


Pierre August Renoir

Late last week some friends of ours stopped by and invited us to A BBQ on Sunday, I was a bit doubtful about the weather, as after all it is only April, I need not have worried, the weather was fantastic, so much so that at the BBQ, everybody was slapping the sun cream on, it must have been at least 25 degrees.

It was a lovely day, and now I know that Summer is just round the corner, I am looking forward to to the al fresco life.

  Delphin Enjolras

Long, lazy lunches and dinner parties on balmy nights, conversation running late into the night.


Midnight strolls round the garden and beyond taking in the scented air and listening to the night-time chorus of cicadas, crickets and other nocturnes.


And if your lucky enough to have a lake or river nearby...


 Delphin Enjolras


All the restaurants and cafés will be putting out the canopies, ready for the influx of Summer diners.


MG and I had one of the most memorable al fresco lunches here at The Restaurant Fournaise, along the banks of the River Seine, just outside Paris, if it looks familiar it is because it is the restaurant that is featured in the Renoir painting at the top of this post, it was a very romantic lunch, I remember not wanting to leave, it was like being in the painting.  If any of you reading this are in Paris or planning to go this Summer, you must add this to your list, you won't be disappointed. click this link to found out more.


 Restuarant Fournaise
 

Neil Folberg


Delphin Enjolras

Roll on al fresco days and nights, we are ready for you.

Saturday, April 10, 2010

Virginia Oldoini, Countess di Castiglione


Louis Pierson

Apologies to none history lovers for bringing you another demi-mondaine post so soon after Lady Emma, on my internet wanderings I came across some photographs of The Countess di Castiglione and I knew I had to do a post about her.

Virginia Oldoini, Countess di Castiglione (22 March 1837 – 28 November 1899), better known as La Castiglione, was an Italian courtesan and secret agent who achieved notoriety as a mistress of Emperor Napoleon III of France. She was an advocate for Italian unification through the influence she had upon the Emperor. She was also a significant figure in the early history of photography as a collaborator of photographer Pierre-Louis Pierson.

 
Born Virginia Elisabetta Luisa Carlotta Antonietta Teresa Maria Oldoïni, (French: Virginie Élisabeth Louise Charlotte Antoinette Thérèse Marie Oldoïni) on 22 March 1837 in Florence, Tuscany to Marquis Filippo Oldoini and Marquise Isabella Lamporecchi, members of the minor Tuscan nobility, she was often known by her nickname of "Nicchia". Virginia married Francesco Verasis, conte di Castiglione, at the age of 17. He was twelve years her senior, they had a son, Georgio.

 
 Portrait of the Countess di Castiglione painted in Paris, 1862 by Michele Gordigiani

Her cousin, Camillo, conte di Cavour, was a minister to Victor Emmanuel II, king of Sardinia, Piedmont and Savoy. When the Castigliones traveled to Paris in 1855, the Countess was under her cousin's instructions to plead the cause of Italian unity with Napoleon III of France. She achieved notoriety by becoming Napoleon III's mistress, a scandal that led her husband to demand a marital separation. During her two years' relationship with the French emperor (1856-1857), she was permitted to enter the very exclusive circle of European royalty. Among others she met Augusta of Saxe-Weimar, Otto von Bismarck and Adolphe Thiers.


 Queen Of Hearts

 The Countess was known for her "divine beauty" and flamboyant entrances in elaborate dress at the imperial court. One of her most infamous outfits was a "Queen of Hearts" costume. A portrait of the Countess was painted by George Frederic Watts in 1857. In 1856 she began sitting for Mayer and Pierson, the favoured photographers of the imperial court. She was described as having long, wavy blonde hair, pale skin, a delicate oval face, and eyes which changed colour constantly from green to an extraordinary blue-violet Over the next four decades she would direct Pierre-Louis Pierson to help her create 700 different photographs in which she re-created the signature moments of her life for the camera. Her part in the creation of these art works is often overlooked due to other aspects in her life but she was in fact fully in control and used Pierre-Louis Pierson as a instrument in the realisation of her own personal fantasies.

 Louis Pierson

 She paid a large amount of her own personal fortune for the right to do this, often getting into debt as a result. Most of the photographs depicted the Countess in her theatrical outfits, such as the Queen of Hearts dress. A number of photographs depicted the Countess in ways that were undoubtedly risqué for the era, notably, images that expose her bare legs or feet. In these photos, her head has been cropped out.

The Legs of the Countess de Castiglione (c. 1861/67)

By 1857 the brief affair with Napoleon III was over, inducing her to return to Italy. Four years later, the Kingdom of Italy was proclaimed, conceivably in part due to the influence that the Countess had exerted on Napoleon III. That same year, she returned to France and settled in Passy.
Just after the defeat of France during the Franco-Prussian War in 1871, she was called to meet, in secret, Otto von Bismarck to explain to him how the German occupation of Paris could be fatal. She may have succeeded, as Paris stayed free of Prussian occupation.

Louis Pierson
Virginia spent her declining years in an apartment in the Place Vendôme, where she had the rooms decorated in funereal black, the blinds kept drawn, and mirrors banished—apparently so she would not have to confront her advancing age and loss of beauty. She would only leave the apartment at night. In the 1890s she began a brief collaboration with Pierson again, though her later photographs clearly show her loss of any critical judgement, possible due to her growing mental instability. She wished to set up an exhibit of her photographs at the Exposition Universelle (1900), though this did not happen. On November 28, 1899, she died at age sixty-two, and was buried at the Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris.


 Robert de Montesquiou, a Symbolist poet, dandy and avid art collector, was fascinated by the Countess di Castiglione. He spent thirteen years writing her biography, La Divine Comtesse, published in 1913. After her death, he collected 433 of her photographs, all now preserved at the Metropolitan Museum of Art
The Countess's life was depicted in a 1955 French film, La Contessa di Castiglione, that starred Yvonne de Carlo.

Some of the Photographs are so contemporary it is hard to believe they were taken in the nineteenth century.
I wonder what she would have become had she been born in our times?

Text Source for Countess di Castiglione from Wikipedia